Ushuaia, Argentina

Today is a 3-hour flight on Aerolineas Argentinas from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia, Argentina, to board Ponant’s Le Lyrial for the South Atlantic crossing to Cape Town. The flight departs at 6 am, so it’s a 3 am departure from Legado Mitico to get to Ezeiza (Pistarini) airport. The airport transfer can take anything up to 90 minutes in heavy traffic, but this morning the taxi driver weaves his way along the cobblestone streets of Palermo onto the highway, arriving at the airport in 40 minutes. We are departing from Terminal C, which seems to be a ‘domestic’ arm of the international airport, and again requires a bus across the tarmac to the plane. It’s a nearly full flight by the look of it, with the economy class cabin in a 2-4-2 seating configuration on the Aerolineas Argentinas flight. It’s a relatively new plane by the look of it, full of bleary-eyed passengers. Despite 3 hours of sleep, it’s still hard to doze off on the plane, but thankfully the flight lands 3 hours later in Ushuaia to a sunny day. 

The charter flight (it’s not really, it seems Ponant has bought a lot of seats on a commercial flight) passengers are bused to the Hotel Arakur for lunch and a walk around the forest at the back of the hotel. Set high up on a hill overlooking Ushuaia, the hotel has had a lot of money spent on it, and the buffet lunch is perfectly fine. I’m not sure I’d stay here, as even though the view over Ushuaia is spectacular, it requires a shuttle bus to reach the town, or anywhere else. I suspect it does well as a ski hotel in winter, and based on comments from passengers from other cruise lines, it seems to be the hotel of choice for lunches and short hikes while waiting to board Antarctica bound ships.

The afternoon passes quickly with some free time in Ushuaia, and it’s back on the bus to board Le Lyrial. Our bus isn’t selected for baggage scanning on the way onto the wharf, so we breeze through and are on-board the ship by 4:45 pm.

It’s a busy day in port, with 7 ships crammed onto the small Ushuaia wharf. Le Lyrial is at the end of the wharf on the left, with Island Sky directly across on the right. Directly behind Le Lyrial is the Akademik Vavilov, with the tall ship Bark Europa and Ocean Nova tucked in behind it. Behind Island Sky is the Ocean Diamond, and Ortelius at the end on the right.

Most of the ships are heading out to the Antarctic Peninsula, with Le Lyrial due to sail east to the Falklands. At 5 pm, Ocean Diamond leads the procession of ships down the Beagle Channel, followed by Ocean Nova, Vavilov, and Ortelius. By the time Le Lyrial pulls out at 7 pm, only Island Sky and Bark Europa are left. It looks like Island Sky will depart next, as we can see them performing their lifeboat drill at the wharf.

Commandant Etienne Garcia announces that we have taken on provisions at Ushuaia, but need to head across the Beagle Channel to Port Williams on the Chilean side to bunker fuel, which will take about 2 hours sailing and 4 hours of refueling.

It’s dark by the time Le Lyrial arrives in Port Williams, and we will depart for the Falklands early in the morning. In the meantime, the mandatory lifeboat drill starts at 6.45 pm, and expedition parka distribution at 8.30 pm. It’s the best organised parka distribution I’ve seen – a single file queue in front of the Theatre is managed by 3 or 4 staff that size up the passengers and suggest a parka size to try from a rack with all of the sizes. Mine fits first go, and then it’s just a case of signing for it at the top of the queue, and a new parka is provided, then out single file in the opposite direction. All done in less than 5 minutes. Someone with some organisational skills has finally gotten hold of that process.

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