Black Turtle Cove & Quito

An early start this morning to be packed and ready to depart the Beagle. Before we disembark for the last time, we take a panga ride around Black Turtle Cove, with two other pangas from the Samba ship for company. As I make my way to the waiting panga, I can see the raised fin of a large Galapagos Shark slicing through the water, less than a metre away from the panga, which is still tied up to the Beagle. According to the wildlife guide, white-tipped reef sharks and Galapagos Sharks both reach 2m in length, but the Galapagos sharks seem to be wider, heavier and altogether heftier and worthy of respect. Puts swimming back to the Beagle into context. If I was an American, I’d be constructing a wildly exaggerated story of how I’d swum through shark infested waters.

Black Turtle Cove is a shallow set of networked coves, home to resting white-tipped reef sharks, sea turtles, and some marbled and eagle rays. There are many reef sharks resting around the mangrove area, and many sea turtles. The local pelicans are practicing their version of the plunge dive, which is more akin to a crash dive. It is a pleasant way to end the two weeks on the Beagle.

Surprisingly, the flights from Galapagos to Quito via Quayaquil are only half full, so it is a pleasant journey with an entire row to myself. All economy class travel should be this way.

Tomorrow and the day after will be spent travelling through Lima in order to get to La Paz, for the start of 5 days overland through the Uyuni Salt Lakes, to reach San Pedro de Atacama in Chile.

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